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Started the fresh build and took it for its maden voyage around the block and thought it started raining and I was right Didnt take long to see the oil dripping out the v bands on both primary 's. I used a 6an feed and 10 an dump into the front of the upper pan. Now I am thinking the rings are not seated so would crank case pressure be the reason, over filled the oil or?

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I don't need any more problems with this thing so hopping its an easy fix. Wow I hate problems like this, sorry man. No worries but thanks,Im used to it from this project and by now if it doesn't go wrong I know somthing's about too. Might need a dump instead of the IDK should be plenty unless it has a kink or restriction somewhere? Did you run it into the front of the pan?

I think -6 is a tad large for oil feeds I have even heard of having to add oil restrictors into some journal bearing turbo's. Are we sure its coming from the turbo's? Maybe pull the lower up-pipes from the manifolds and make sure it's dry there before tearing into the turbo's. Both dumps are in the front of the pan and I used a melling pump with rev thread,heard the pressure from them is higher than a stock so the -6 might be too big.

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Il pull the up pipes to check them before I tear into the turblows. I have always ran a -6 feed line on S's with no issue. I even run a melling oil pump. Either the turbos were trash from the get go or you have bigger issues than an oil feed problem. It probably is drain related. How much oil pressure do you have. It can be a pain to get the drains right on triples. I would use 4 feed lines and if the problems persist address it with restrictors before going bigger on the drains.

You need two drains. Don't merge them Unless they go into a 14 an. There is a lot of oil that has to come through there.Published by Tim Scott on Jun 5, When you run a turbocharger rebuild shopyou hear these 5 words a lot. OK, so I figured I would write a post for you guys on this one. Just about all seals are steel piston rings. Some have carbon seals on the compressor side. The carbon seals are originally for draw thru carburetor systems, low mounted turbos, and high pressure crank cast systems.

Carburetors would have a high vacuum on the compressor seal. That in return would pull the oil out of the turbocharger. Some of the SVO mustangs ran them.

duramax turbo oil leak

There are still carbon seals uses today though. Ok, let move on to the turbine seals. Now, there are a few different types of seals for the turbine shaft. Most popular is a single gap steel piston ring.

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Works great has been for years. Things that it does not like, high crank case pressure, low perched turbos, too much oil pressure. How many of these will blow out that seal???? Next seal is the gapless ring. You can do this two ways.

How to Tell If Your Duramax Diesel Turbo Is Gone?

Run a piston ring with a labyrinth lock for the gap. Or you can stack 2 rings back to back then offset the two gaps. This is very popular in the Porsche cars. A lot of those cars run 6 bar of oil pressure, low turbos, and sump pumps. For a true seal, the best set-up is two gapless rings in separate grooves.

This will seal very well. There is a down side though. By the time you notice its leaking there is not much hope for a cheap rebuild. Ok, back to the topic of the leaky turbocharger. If your turbo has been fine for years and it starts to leak. You need to look at a few things.

First off check shaft play.Introduced in as a joint venture between GM and Isuzu, the Duramax V-8 was the General's bid to one-up Ford and Chrysler's newest generation of powerful and efficient diesels.

This move was not voluntary on GM's part, as competitor Chrysler had just purchased their previous engine supplier, Detroit Diesel.

GM was eager to develop and speed to market the 6. Test-drive the truck; this provides the first indication of whether the turbo is on the way out. Pay close attention to how the turbo acts.

If it takes longer than before to make power or produce the audible whine you're used to hearing, then it may be going bad. Also listen to the pitch of the whine. If it sounds quieter or lower-pitched than it normally does, you may have a problem. It may help to have a second identical truck on hand against which to compare.

Check the turbo boost. If your truck doesn't already have a boost gauge, check boost using a store-bought vacuum or boost gauge and the appropriate fitting for the pressure test port on the manifold plenum. If you can't find the appropriate fitting, check boost at one of the vacuum ports.

With the gauge connected, open the throttle and check the peak boost. All models should check in at 20 psi of boost maximum, with the rpm at about 1, for to LB7 motors and 1, for all others. Squirt the tube connections with soapy water and watch for bubbles.

If your boost reads low, the turbo might not be at fault, so check for boost leaks first. If you see bubbles around any of the couplings or anywhere on the intercooler, found in front of the radiator, then you have a boost leak and not a bad turbo. Check all of the fittings from the turbo to the intercooler and back to the engine intake from the intercooler. Watch the wastegate actuator rod and actuator on the turbo, which applies only to LB7 models without a variable-geometry turbo.

The wastegate is a spring-loaded diaphragm that opens a valve to bypass exhaust around the turbo at maximum boost. Watch the wastegate actuator rod; it should move very quickly to open the bypass at the turbo's maximum boost point. Pay attention to the actuator on the variable-geometry turbo housing.

Instead of a wastegate, variable-geometry turbos use variable-pitch vanes to modulate turbo boost. The vanes are close together at low rpm, increasing exhaust gas velocity and helping the turbo to spool up faster. An actuator pushes the vanes open at high rpm for maximum flow.

From idle, the vanes' actuator rod should move linearly with engine speed to open the vanes and then begin to move back to close them and limit boost at 20 psi. Shut the engine down and quickly remove the tube that connects the air filter to the turbo inlet.

duramax turbo oil leak

Reach into the turbo inlet and spin the blades, using a plastic ballpoint pen. The compressor wheel should spin with minimal resistance and keep spinning for a few seconds afterward. If the compressor wheel doesn't spin freely or immediately grinds to a halt, then the turbo bearings are shot. This procedure is best performed with the turbo as hot as possible as metal expands with heat, so allowing the turbo to cool may not give you an accurate gauge of its condition.If you have a Duramax 6.

Over the years these trucks have been really good performers, but they do have some common problems that we see over and over again. The original injectors that came in these trucks had all sorts of issues with cracking. The symptoms are constant smoke at idle and gaining fuel in the oil.

Unfortunately the best thing to do if you have this problem is to replace the whole set at once. Injector replacement on the LB7 truck is rather labor intensive and just changing one is usually not worth the risk for the labor costs. Fuel Filter Housing Oring Leaks — The Duramax fuel system does not have any sort of low pressure fuel pump pushing fuel to the engine from the tank.

The injection pump sucks all the fuel from the tank. While we are seeing more and more rusted out fuel lines causing the engines to suck air, nine times out of ten the issues are in the fuel filter head. Under the primer button there are some orings that fail on a regular basis. This can produce long cranks and hard starts.

Glow Plug System Issues — Nearly half of the check engine lights that come in for the Duramax pickups are for glow plugs. The glow plugs burn out over time and can be a real nuisance to remove from the aluminum heads sometimes.

duramax turbo oil leak

Not only does the threaded metal part of the glow plug seize in the head, but the tips of the glow plugs sometimes bulb making it really difficult to get them out. Also the metal strips that connect the glow plugs together on each side corrode and break causing issues. Lastly we replace a fair amount of glow plug controllers as well. You will usually get a diagnostic trouble code for the cooler when they go bad.

Head Gaskets — As these truck reach themiles we are seeing more and more head gasket issues.

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The Duramax has a multi-layer steel head gasket. When they have issues, they do not typically smoke out the exhaust or get coolant into the cylinders. What happens is the head lifts a little during the compression stroke. This allows the layers of the gasket to separate which lets combustion pressure into the coolant system. The pressure will cause the coolant to be pushed out the coolant overflow.

You can check for a head gasket issue by squeezing the top radiator hose when the engine is running and right after you shut it off. You should be able to squeeze the hose very easily. If it is rock hard, you have a head gasket issue. It is extremely important to have the heads surfaced flat before putting the truck back together. This one is fairly common and unfortunately a huge pain in the butt to change. Water will seep from the underside of the pump. Be prepared though because you will have to remove the dampner pulley to get the pump off.

The pulleys are pressed onto the crank and you will need a really good puller to get it off. Allison Transmission - The Allison transmission behind the LB7 Duramax to be honest is nothing to brag about in stock form.

If you add a programmer that adds horsepower or more, you will be able to limp the transmission.

What Causes a Turbo To Blow, Leak, or Burn Oil? Find Out HERE!

The Allison transmission is very sensitive to slip and will derate the power as soon as it detects any slip.

Usually you can just clear the code or restart the truck to get full power back. Aside from an entire trans rebuild with better parts, we suggest adding an ATS Co-Pilot to help raise holding power. We have had really good luck adding the Co-Pilot to bone stock transmissions and solving the limp problem with just a programmer.The 6. While various versions of the engine have surfaced over the years, all generations of the Duramax are based on the same foundation.

Each generation is more-or-less an evolution of the previous model, with improvements and modifications made as necessary to maintain a competitive edge in the marketplace and meet progressing emissions standards. However, like any engine or any complex mechanism for that matterthe Duramax engine and Allison transmission have some common problems inherent to their design.

Some of these issues can be prevented via modifications while others may be avoided by simply understanding the root cause s. The Duramax diesel is susceptible to fuel starvation and getting air in the fuel lines. This can be contributed to the fuel filter housing design and the fact that the Duramax does not use a lift pump.

Rather, the high pressure fuel pump injection pump is responsible for vacuuming fuel from the tank. It is quite common for the fuel filter housing to develop a small crack or let air seep in due to a bad housing o-ring or water-in-fuel sensor o-ring.

It can also be relatively difficult to prime the fuel system once air has been introduced into the system, such as when the fuel filter is changed. The to LB7 fuel filter housings seem to be the most prone to problems. Water pump failures for Duramax engine are somewhat common. It is not unlikely that a water pump will need to be replaced in the 80, -mile range.

This seems to be inherent of the factory water pump design. Overheating issues with the Duramax diesel seems to be a hit-or-miss problem; some owners experience it, while others never will. Regardless, it's more common with the Duramax than other engines. Overheating often occurs as a result of a fan clutch failure, preventing the engine fan from providing supplemental airflow as necessary to keep the engine from overheating.

A water pump failure which is relatively common will also likely result in overheating. Premature injector failure was a critical problem for the to model year Duramax LB7. If you are buying a used truck, be warned that not all engines have been retrofitted with the new injector design. The design flaws of the original LB7 injectors have not been characteristic of later injector designs. However, Duramax injectors in general seem to be relatively sensitive to contamination and may fail prematurely if proper maintenance is not performed at regular intervals.

It is extremely common for the injector wiring harness to chafe over time. This can cause a number of issues if the wires become exposed, including a no-start or rough running, lack of power situation. The associated trouble codes will usually reveal which injector s are affected and will relate to an "open circuit" condition.

Common turbo failure – oil leaks

Example: "Injector circuit open, cylinder 7". Often, you can verify the problem by wiggling the wires around the injector. If the problem goes away even momentarilyyou've identified the affected zone. Glow plug failure was a concern on the model year LBZ and LLY Duramax models, but the problem should have been long corrected for owners of these years.I put to much oil in my vw turbo but had some removed, the oil pressure rose to I parked and later discovered oil on my drive way.

Is Your Turbo Leaking Oil?

What should I do? Hi I drive a 06 cobalt and just recently my car has been over heating and I add coolant then it s okay again and now there s oil leaking when I took it to get an oil change they left side note oil contains water and also it blows out a lot of white smoke from the exhaust.

Could this have caused a blown head gasket. The car was over heated or over boosted causing the headgasket to blow. The head will need to be milled flat, and the oil changed. Worst case you need to rebuild or replace the engine.

Yes Definitely a blown head gasket u should be able to put ur hand close to the exhaust pipe for a few seconds and smell ur hand it should smell sweet and u should have a little water on ur hand. Hi, After taking my 96 civic to a backyard mechanic to sort out a wobbling cam gear, upon the cars return my boost pipe came off while I was driving, immediately pulled over and things to cool down so I can put the boost pipe back on, of course a couple days later, a different boost pipe comes off and I have to follow the same process again.

I have vw golf 1. I think the Turbine wheel broke off the shaft and the exhaust is getting into the oil system. Its very common for the shafts to break on the 1. My email is turbolabamerica gmail.

My phone number is This reminds me of a time when someone I know had a cylinder head rebuilt and the shop used the wrong valve guides, they were larger than they were supposed to be and they cause the head to leak oil really bad.

Need to know if my turbo needs to be shipped or should I just purchase a rebuild kit. I have a genuine Garrett Gtr bb.

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It has black tar residue in the compressor outlet- mild shaft play, will spin freely but slows quick considering its a ball bearing turbo. I also noticed a very light crunching sound when I manually spin it.

Let me know if its worth fixing please. Call or email anytime Hello, I have a 2. I have oil inside the hose that connects the MAF with the turbo, and also in the hoses after the turbine. The turbine shaft has no play at all in either direction. I have smoke if I open the oil filler cap.I have an oil leak that presents itself on the bottom of the bellhousing and wondering if you all could help me out. The actual leak is much farther up the engine from what I can see.

There are two areas with oil: 1 - on the drivers side near the stock turbo has the most oil Way less oil than the drivers side just wet and gritty with dirt If I hammer on it for a while, I'll get enough to drip on the ground a few drops not a puddle.

I don't lose enough oil to notice it on the dipstick ever. The oil collects where the tranny and engine mate. BTW this happened before the twins went on too, it just seems like there is more oil now Thanks for any help.

How To: Find and Fix Boost Leaks Duramax

Both area's circled are the PCV positive crankcase ventilation tube. The first pic is the entrance to the turbo inlet and the 2nd photo is where it attaches to the valve cover. You should do a re-route on this to negate any oil from being vented into the turbo inlet.

Wow, really I guess I missed where there could be enough oil to go on the ground. I thought for some reason it was just oil in the turbo, pipes, etc. Hey, I am no expert on that, but all areas circled are the PCV, and when ran there is a buildup of oil residue in those pipes.

I can't tell from your comment if you are being smart or not though Do you have any blow by coming from the oil cap? Might be a bigger problem brewing or it could be nothing more than bad seals at either side of the PCV tube and the clamp not being on properly over the turbo inlet. Not being smart at all. Nothing on the oil cap. I'll look closer at the seal area, the clamp to the turbo inlet looks good from what I can see. Have you had the stock turbo off?

If so could be leaking from the cam journal or oil return X2 on the pcv rerought:D. Ok, the internet can make a simple comment sound funny PCV should have been rerouted when you first drove it home.